Handler
Guides & Advice

Choosing Your Puppy

Before training begins, the foundation is laid in the choice of puppy. Work-bred lines matter — not because pet-bred dogs cannot be trained, but because generations of selection for drive, biddability and nose make the job significantly easier. Look for pups from parents with proven working records, not just show titles.

When assessing a litter, watch for curiosity, boldness and willingness to retrieve naturally. A pup that chases and brings back even scraps of paper is showing you the instinct you will build on. Avoid the most dominant and most submissive pup; the middle of the litter often produces the most trainable dogs.

The First Week at Home

The first week is not about training — it is about settling. Let your pup explore its new environment, establish a routine for feeding, toileting and sleep, and begin the quiet process of building a bond. Resist the urge to invite everyone round to meet the new arrival; early overwhelm can create anxiety that takes months to undo.

Start as you mean to go on with crate training. A crate is not a punishment — it is a safe den. Feed your pup in the crate, put favourite toys in there and let the door stay open initially. A dog that settles willingly in a crate is easier to travel with, easier to kennel and calmer in the field.

Foundation Obedience: The Big Three

Before any retrieving work begins, your pup needs three solid commands: sit, stay and come. These are the controls that will keep your dog safe and make all subsequent training possible. Teach each one in a low-distraction environment, with high-value rewards and extremely short sessions — five minutes maximum for a young pup.

The sit should be immediate and held until released. The stay should build gradually — one second, five seconds, thirty seconds, a minute — with you moving away incrementally. The recall must be the best thing that ever happens to your dog; never call a pup to you for anything unpleasant.

Introduction to Dummies

Once your pup has basic control and is around 12–16 weeks old, you can begin dummy introduction. Start with a small canvas dummy — 100g for small breeds, 250g for larger — and let the pup investigate and mouth it freely before you ask for anything formal.

The first retrieves should be short, exciting and easy. Roll the dummy a few feet, let the pup chase, and make a huge fuss when it picks up. Do not worry about a perfect delivery at this stage — you are building drive and enthusiasm. Formal delivery to hand comes later.

What Comes Next

Once your pup is reliably sitting, staying, recalling and retrieving short marked dummies with enthusiasm, you have the building blocks in place. The next stage — steadiness, blinds, water and introduction to game — is a separate chapter. But get this foundation right and the rest follows naturally.

If you are in any doubt about your progress, consider finding a local gundog training group or an experienced trainer for a few sessions. There is no substitute for an experienced eye on your dog.

Why These Three Commands Matter More Than Anything Else

Every experienced handler will tell you the same thing: a dog that sits, stays and comes reliably is more valuable in the field than a dog that knows fifty commands but does none of them under pressure. These three are the non-negotiables.

Teaching the Sit

Lure the pup into a sit using a treat held above and slightly behind the nose. The moment the backside touches the ground, mark it with a clear word ("yes" or a click) and reward. Build duration before you add the command word — only attach the word "sit" once the dog is offering the behaviour reliably.

Teaching the Stay

The stay is built in three dimensions: duration, distance and distraction — in that order, never simultaneously. Start with one second, standing directly in front of the dog. Add a second at a time. Only when you have a solid 60-second stay at zero distance do you begin to move away — one step at a time.

Teaching the Recall

The recall is the most important command your dog will ever learn, and it must be conditioned to feel like the best thing in the world. Use a long line initially to prevent self-rewarding through running away. Call once, apply light pressure on the line if needed, and make an enormous fuss when the dog arrives. Never punish a dog that comes to you — even if it took five minutes.

Your Field First Aid Kit

Before anything else, you need to be carrying the right kit. At minimum: wound wash (saline), sterile gauze pads, self-adhesive bandage (Vetrap), a tick remover tool, tweezers, saline eye wash and your vet's emergency number. A foil emergency blanket takes up almost no space and could save a dog's life in cold water situations.

Cuts and Lacerations

The most common field injury. Clean the wound thoroughly with saline — do not use hydrogen peroxide or iodine in the field as both damage tissue. Apply gentle pressure with sterile gauze to control bleeding. For deep cuts or wounds that will not stop bleeding within five minutes, get to a vet. Do not attempt to suture in the field.

Thorn and Grass Seed Injuries

Grass seeds (especially barley) are a serious and underestimated risk. They enter through any orifice or break in the skin and migrate inward, causing abscesses and serious internal damage. Check ears, between toes, groin and armpits after every outing in arable country from June onwards. Any paw-licking, head-shaking or swelling after fieldwork warrants a vet check.

Hypothermia and Cold Water

A dog that has been working in cold water — especially if exhausted — can drop temperature fast. Signs include uncontrollable shivering, lethargy, pale gums and loss of coordination. Remove the dog from the water, dry thoroughly, wrap in the foil blanket and get the dog warm from the core. Do not rub vigorously — gentle warmth is safer. Get to a vet as soon as possible.

Pad Injuries

Worn or cut pads are painful and can end a dog's day or season. Clean, apply a non-stick dressing and Vetrap, and rest the dog. Repeated pad wear usually indicates the dog is working harder than its fitness level supports — a pre-season conditioning programme helps significantly.